No, adhesive films are not intended to be walked on. The film will be scratched and destroyed.

In principle, this is possible. However, it is important to take into account whether the lacquer is resistant to plasticisers and which solvents are in the lacquer. (Ethanol/isopropanol/water/benzene are suitable solvents)

In principle, the film will adhere in 90% of cases. However, it depends on the embossing. Woodchip wallpaper should not be painted with latex or emulsion paint that contains resin and silicone additives. This reduces the bond of the adhesive.

There is a risk of them leaving small residues, therefore test at an inconspicuous place beforehand.

This is generally possible. However, the surface should be as smooth as possible (e.g. no chequer plate film) and free of dust and grease.

If the bottom layer is a PP or PE film (polyolefin), for example, the adhesion will no longer be as strong as on other surfaces.

If the film is applied to an existing PVC film, it will no longer be easy to remove at a later date because the films form a strong bond.

The film should adhere in principle. However, it also depends on the condition of the surface. It is important that it is free of dust, grease and dirt. It's best to vacuum the surface and wipe it with a damp cloth (then leave it to dry). Apply the film to the surface in one go and rub with a roller, squeegee or cloth. Gently smooth down the corners and edges of the surface.

Option 1:
Spray the adhesive residues with clean water and let it soak for a few minutes. The adhesive swells and can be scraped off with a spatula / scraper.

Option 2:
Wet the adhesive residues with a mixture of white spirit and isopropanol (at a ratio of 1:1), let is soak and scrape off with a spatula / scraper. If necessary, finish with a (window) cleaning agent.

We recommend Pattex strong transparent adhesive or UHU all-purpose strong adhesive to help with the application in particularly critical situations. These are solvent-based adhesives where you should allow as much as possible
of the solvent to escape before the surface and film are brought together. According to the manufacturers, the adhesives
are suitable for many plastics, however, we recommend testing this beforehand to see how the surface on
which the film is to be applied reacts to the adhesive. Alternatively, you can also use water-based (solvent-free) adhesives – it is important to ensure that the adhesive is resistant to plasticisers. However, a specific type of glue cannot be recommended here.

No, adhesive films are not intended to be walked on. The film will be scratched and destroyed.

In principle, this is possible. However, it is important to take into account whether the lacquer is resistant to plasticisers and which solvents are in the lacquer. (Ethanol/isopropanol/water/benzene are suitable solvents)

In principle, the film will adhere in 90% of cases. However, it depends on the embossing. Woodchip wallpaper should not be painted with latex or emulsion paint that contains resin and silicone additives. This reduces the bond of the adhesive.

There is a risk of them leaving small residues, therefore test at an inconspicuous place beforehand.

This is generally possible. However, the surface should be as smooth as possible (e.g. no chequer plate film) and free of dust and grease.

If the bottom layer is a PP or PE film (polyolefin), for example, the adhesion will no longer be as strong as on other surfaces.

If the film is applied to an existing PVC film, it will no longer be easy to remove at a later date because the films form a strong bond.

The film should adhere in principle. However, it also depends on the condition of the surface. It is important that it is free of dust, grease and dirt. It's best to vacuum the surface and wipe it with a damp cloth (then leave it to dry). Apply the film to the surface in one go and rub with a roller, squeegee or cloth. Gently smooth down the corners and edges of the surface.

Option 1:
Spray the adhesive residues with clean water and let it soak for a few minutes. The adhesive swells and can be scraped off with a spatula / scraper.

Option 2:
Wet the adhesive residues with a mixture of white spirit and isopropanol (at a ratio of 1:1), let is soak and scrape off with a spatula / scraper. If necessary, finish with a (window) cleaning agent.

We recommend Pattex strong transparent adhesive or UHU all-purpose strong adhesive to help with the application in particularly critical situations. These are solvent-based adhesives where you should allow as much as possible
of the solvent to escape before the surface and film are brought together. According to the manufacturers, the adhesives
are suitable for many plastics, however, we recommend testing this beforehand to see how the surface on
which the film is to be applied reacts to the adhesive. Alternatively, you can also use water-based (solvent-free) adhesives – it is important to ensure that the adhesive is resistant to plasticisers. However, a specific type of glue cannot be recommended here.

There is a risk that the print colour fades or blurs slightly. The use of alcohol-based disinfectants must therefore be avoided.

The films can be used in rooms with high humidity. For example, they can be applied to a shower cubicle or window.

You can use a hair dryer to apply heat to an adhesive film and then remove it. A static adhesive film can simply be removed.

The film can be used on real glass and perspex glass.

The water makes it easier to apply. The squeegee slides easier over the film.

There is a risk that the print colour fades or blurs slightly. The use of alcohol-based disinfectants must therefore be avoided.

The films can be used in rooms with high humidity. For example, they can be applied to a shower cubicle or window.

You can use a hair dryer to apply heat to an adhesive film and then remove it. A static adhesive film can simply be removed.

The film can be used on real glass and perspex glass.

The water makes it easier to apply. The squeegee slides easier over the film.

Yes, ceramics can be applied behind cooker hobs. Splashes of grease can be removed easily with some water.

They can be applied to sloping walls without any problems.

It is possible to apply them to tiles. The joints can be covered with adhesive and do not need to be removed with filler.

The PVC layer can be removed without leaving any residues, even after many years. The paper layer applied to the wall is an ideal base for the next wallpapering project or can be soaked with water and then scraped off with a spatula.

The strip can be removed again and reapplied as long as the paste or adhesive has not fully dried.

No, the strips must be glued edge to edge.

Ceramics are completely waterproof. It is therefore very easy to clean and care for them. They can be cleaned with gentle household liquid detergents, soap solutions or similar. Then wash the wall surface with clean water. Attention: Avoid acetone, white spirit and direct heat!

The condition on which the ceramics are to be applied must be smooth, firm, dry and free from cracks and holes. Large uneven areas must first be removed with a suitable filler.

The special ceramics Fix paste can be used for absorbent surfaces. The special ceramics Fix adhesive can be used for non-absorbent surfaces.

Yes, ceramics can be applied behind cooker hobs. Splashes of grease can be removed easily with some water.

They can be applied to sloping walls without any problems.

It is possible to apply them to tiles. The joints can be covered with adhesive and do not need to be removed with filler.

The PVC layer can be removed without leaving any residues, even after many years. The paper layer applied to the wall is an ideal base for the next wallpapering project or can be soaked with water and then scraped off with a spatula.

The strip can be removed again and reapplied as long as the paste or adhesive has not fully dried.

No, the strips must be glued edge to edge.

Ceramics are completely waterproof. It is therefore very easy to clean and care for them. They can be cleaned with gentle household liquid detergents, soap solutions or similar. Then wash the wall surface with clean water. Attention: Avoid acetone, white spirit and direct heat!

The condition on which the ceramics are to be applied must be smooth, firm, dry and free from cracks and holes. Large uneven areas must first be removed with a suitable filler.

The special ceramics Fix paste can be used for absorbent surfaces. The special ceramics Fix adhesive can be used for non-absorbent surfaces.

When selecting the impact sound insulation make sure that it is ideally suited to Click Vinyl and is not too soft (compressive strength must be at least 20 t/m²).

The tiles can be cut to the desired size with a jigsaw or good knife.

It is not problem at all to use them in a garage or carport. One square metre of click TILE floor tiles can withstand a weight of up to 110 tons.

It is possible to walk on the flooring easily, even with very high, narrow heels, because the structure of the click TILE floor files is relatively compact.

The tiles can be cleaned without much equipment with water or also a high-pressure household cleaning agent.

Make sure that the corner and edge strips are removed first, then remove the floor tiles row by row. Carefully separate the male and female pieces from each other.

The floor files can be laid easily on the following surfaces:

• Ceramic tiles
• Natural stone tiles
• Stone flooring
• Concrete
• Wood
• WPC (wood plastic composites)
• Screed
• Asphalt
• Laminate
• Parquet
• Linoleum
• Cork
• Vinyl flooring
• Restrictions when laying the tiles / information:
  • Gravel --> The floor tiles can be used for private use while camping but not for a large area supporting the weight of a tent, for example
  • Earth / grass --> The floor tiles can be laid if the earth / grass is dry, hard and stable.

The tiles can be cut to the desired size with a jigsaw or good knife.

It is not problem at all to use them in a garage or carport. One square metre of click TILE floor tiles can withstand a weight of up to 110 tons.

It is possible to walk on the flooring easily, even with very high, narrow heels, because the structure of the click TILE floor files is relatively compact.

The tiles can be cleaned without much equipment with water or also a high-pressure household cleaning agent.

Make sure that the corner and edge strips are removed first, then remove the floor tiles row by row. Carefully separate the male and female pieces from each other.

The floor files can be laid easily on the following surfaces:

• Ceramic tiles
• Natural stone tiles
• Stone flooring
• Concrete
• Wood
• WPC (wood plastic composites)
• Screed
• Asphalt
• Laminate
• Parquet
• Linoleum
• Cork
• Vinyl flooring
• Restrictions when laying the tiles / information:
  • Gravel --> The floor tiles can be used for private use while camping but not for a large area supporting the weight of a tent, for example
  • Earth / grass --> The floor tiles can be laid if the earth / grass is dry, hard and stable.

Moderately warm items, such as a coffee pot, can be placed on the tablecloth for a short time. Contact with hot items, such as a frying pan, must be avoided, otherwise the surface of the tablecloth may be damaged.

All d-c-table tablecloths are food safe. This means that you can eat the food even if it comes into contact with the tablecloth.

In principle, the tablecloths that are suitable for machine washing can be washed repeatedly without a problem in accordance with the care instructions. However, there is a risk that the stain guard finish gradually deteriorates if they are washed too frequently or regularly in a washing machine. The tablecloths should therefore not be washed more than 5-6 times in a washing machine.

We recommend wiping stains off the tablecloth immediately after use with a mild cleaning agent and a damp cloth. Stains, liquids, inks and particularly aggressive and heavily pigmented substances (e.g. ketchup, mustard) should be removed immediately. Strongly abrasive and chlorine-based cleaning agents must never be used as they may attack the surface coating and discolouration may occur. Note: Petals, leaves and moisture may cause stains when used outdoors for long periods of time.

These folds can be more or less removed by ironing the reverse side of textile-backed tablecloths. Tablecloths that are made entirely from PVC (e.g. lacquer film, transparent) must never be ironed.

Measure the length and width or the diameter of your table and add twice the overhang you want on the sides. This is generally 25 cm.

The textile side of the table protector must be placed face down on the table, otherwise table surfaces with a shellac or nitro cellulose lacquer finish and a hydro or unhardened lacquer finish may be affected by the PVC foam.

Moderately warm items, such as a coffee pot, can be placed on the tablecloth for a short time. Contact with hot items, such as a frying pan, must be avoided, otherwise the surface of the tablecloth may be damaged.

All d-c-table tablecloths are food safe. This means that you can eat the food even if it comes into contact with the tablecloth.

In principle, the tablecloths that are suitable for machine washing can be washed repeatedly without a problem in accordance with the care instructions. However, there is a risk that the stain guard finish gradually deteriorates if they are washed too frequently or regularly in a washing machine. The tablecloths should therefore not be washed more than 5-6 times in a washing machine.

We recommend wiping stains off the tablecloth immediately after use with a mild cleaning agent and a damp cloth. Stains, liquids, inks and particularly aggressive and heavily pigmented substances (e.g. ketchup, mustard) should be removed immediately. Strongly abrasive and chlorine-based cleaning agents must never be used as they may attack the surface coating and discolouration may occur. Note: Petals, leaves and moisture may cause stains when used outdoors for long periods of time.

These folds can be more or less removed by ironing the reverse side of textile-backed tablecloths. Tablecloths that are made entirely from PVC (e.g. lacquer film, transparent) must never be ironed.

Measure the length and width or the diameter of your table and add twice the overhang you want on the sides. This is generally 25 cm.

The textile side of the table protector must be placed face down on the table, otherwise table surfaces with a shellac or nitro cellulose lacquer finish and a hydro or unhardened lacquer finish may be affected by the PVC foam.

Yes. All you need is a ruler and a box cutter. The best method is to just score the surface of the tile and then break it along this target line.

You can download and save all the d-c-fix® catalogs from our downloads area. Please note that colors may differ from the original ones.

Our floor tiles can be vacuumed, swept or washed with lukewarm water and a mild detergent.

The mats are usually simply laid loosely on the floor. However, if using to cover large areas or laying several mats next to each other it is advisable to use double-sided adhesive tape at the edges or joins.